Install dowel pins.
Test fit the main thrust bearings. Mark the centerline of the bearing to make installation with crank easier.
Fit the bearings to the crank. Put a light film of oil on the bearing surfaces to avoid any inadvertent scratching. They should go on with little effort. If you have to force, something is wrong.
Install the timing and camshaft gears with the spacer between onto the crankshaft. The gears will needed to be heated to install, and should slide into place with little effort.
The camshaft gear is installed first with the timing dots towards the pulley. Install the spacer. Install the timing gear. Install C-Clip. Install #4 bearing. Install oil slinger. The dowel holes in the bearing go towards the flywheel.
Install bearings in the Rods. Torque the rods and measure inside diameter with bearing in place to verify everything is correct.
Begin installing rods on the crankshaft. Be sure to measure every rod and journal. Use assembly lube, and verify numbers on the cap match the rod.
Non-offset rods with no tab go bearing tangs down. Torque all nuts to spec., being sure to lube the threads.
Measure the rod side clearance (between rod and crankshaft). If too tight or loose you can swap them to another journal to see if they will fall into specifications.
Install the new cam bearings and check the thrust. After installing, whack the cam towards the flywheel with a rubber mallet. If you then do not get correct clearance, you will need to sand the thrust face on a flat surface with wet/dry sandpaper until specifications achieved.
Check the timing gear backlash. Rotate the crank and verify the camshaft does not work out of the bearings. If it does try a different camshaft gear.
Hold the crank and rock the cam gear. Excessive clearance and play requires a different gear.
Install the distributor timing gear with spring and washers. Temporarily install and clamp a distributor in place at the 4 o’clock position as specified in the manual. Align the rotor to the mark on the distributor body. Check the endplay with a feeler gauge. Add/remove washers to adjust to specification. [need picture]
With the side of the case with the bolts, grab the crankshaft by rods 1 and hold in TDC position and drop into case. Align dowel pins with your previous marks on the bearings.
Install the lifters and rotate the crank 1/4 turn clock wise. Install the cam and line up the timing marks on the timing gears. Make sure the gear is correctly installed to the camshaft. The dot, bolt, and slot should all line up. [picture]
You are ready to assemble case halves. Apply assembly lube to the main cam and bearings. case sealant? No as you don’t want to block the small oil return slots for the main seal and cam plug.
Use wooden clothes pins to keep lifters in the case during assembly.
Install the cam plug.
Place the case halves together gently to avoid losing the lifters. put on the thick washers and six case stud nuts and HAND tighten. Check that the crank turns smoothly. Following the procedure in the manual, tighten the nuts in order and check the crank rotation as you move to every nut. If the crank starts to get harder to turn STOP, and find out what is causing the problem.
Install the oil pump
Install the remainder of the 8mm case nuts.
Set crank end play by installing the flywheel with two shims. Using the endplay tool push the crank towards the flywheel and set the tool. Then push the crank towards the pully end and measure the clearance with a feeler gauge. Adjust to specification by adding and removing shims as necessary.
Remove the flywheel
Install the main seal. Oil the outside of the main seal on all surfaces and push lightly into place. Use a seal installation tool to install squarely into position. The seal sits slightly lower than flush with the lip. Do not press too deep and damage the seal. If damaged, use another new seal.
Final installation of the flywheel. Install a new O-Ring into the flywheel groove. align the dowel pins and place into position. You may need to whack with the rubber mallet to persuade onto crank. use a NEW gland nut and washer and torque to specifications.
Short block is complete.